Fly Lines 

Q.  I have a 15' type 3 and a 15' type 6 sink tip, yet the label says that they both weigh the same. How can two sinking tips weigh the same as each other, but have different sinking speeds?

A.   At RIO, we can make tips that sink at virtually any speed, for any grain weight. One of the best ways of picturing this is to use the analogy of a pound of lead, and a pound of feathers. The lead weighs exactly 1 pound, yet will sink very quickly. The feathers also weigh exactly 1 pound, yet will never sink. They have different densities. Fly lines are the same. By changing the density of the material we use we can alter the sink rate, yet still keep the tips weighing the same - a fact that is very important when it comes to balancing the outfit.
For example, if you were to take off a tip that weighed 109 grains and put on a tip that weighed 150 grains, you would immediately lose the stability of the line in the air. The 150 grain tip would be too heavy for the belly that was designed to carry a 109 grain tip. So we make all the tips for a given AFTM rating weigh the same - this ensures the balance of the line when casting, regardless of the tip used.
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Q.  Why are there two floating tips (tip 1 and tip 2) with the RIO spey lines?

A. The Rio WindCutter & MidSpey Spey lines have two looped sections. The front floating tip (the one with the taper) is called tip 1 and the second floating tip (tip 2) is the fatter and is attached directly to the body of the line. Tip 1 is usually taken off and substituted for any of the 15’ sinking tips that come with the fly line. Tip 2 is usually left on, but there are a number of times when it is better to take tip 2 off. a) If you have got one of the Rio 24’ Big Boy tips,  these tips cast much better attached directly to the body i.e. take off both tip 1 and tip 2.
b) When overhead casting it is usually better to take out tip 2 and attach tip 1 (or the 15’ sink tip required) directly to the body.

c) In really extreme winds, you can attach the leader directly to tip 2, leaving out tip 1 totally. This heavier tip will turn the fly over much better than the finer tip 1 in these conditions.

d) You can replace the floating Tip 2 with the intermediate Tip 2 that comes in the wallet. This intermediate Tip 2 is called the sink tip compensator and is used in strong currents when the short 15ft tip is pushed to the surface like a pendulum. With the compensator in, the sink tip wil ride and stay deeper. . _________________________________

Q.   RIO has so many different trout lines and tapers. Which one should I use?

 Q.  I purchased a Rio Aqualux Striper line 10 months ago and have enjoyed it's performance. However, over the course of the past few months the line has yellowed. Are you aware of this as a problem with your line, and can something be done to rectify it?

A.   There are a couple of reasons that the line could be discolored. The Aqualux seems to take the color of the backing as the backing gets wet and the dye leaks out. If this is the case the yellowing will be the worst in the last few turns of the running line.
If the whole line has turned yellow then there must be a more complicated reason as this shouldn't and doesn't normally happen with the Aqualux line. As with all of our products, if you feel there is a problem with it, please return it to us for inspection and testing. Email zack@rioproducts.com for RMA info.
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Q.   Are the multi-tips available as a package with the wallet, if you already have a VersiTip fly line? If so, what is the price?

A.  The 15' tips are available as a separate item, as is the wallet. You buy them all together, or just choose the tips you need.
Floating tip sections for spey lines are $22.50 for tip 2, and $20.00 for tip 1.
The head wallet is $21, and the 15' intermediate and sinking tips are $20.
Have your dealer order them. You can have them shipped direct to you.
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 Q.  I need a line recommendation for flats fishing for redfish, for all depths and different conditions. I use a faster action rod. I like the idea of having a line that can be set up to float or sink.

Q.  Could you please tell me what I should or should not use to clean or dress fly lines? 

A.   Most plastic cleaners/polishes contain solvents that attack the fly line's PVC coating, and can cause it to dry out, resulting in fly line cracking.
Other enemies of fly lines include insect repellents containing DEET, solvents, gasoline, sunscreen, and excessive heat and sunlight.

Recommendations for Cleaning and Dressing...
Most RIO fly lines are self lubricating. However, cleaning is an important aspect of fly line longevity, and we recommend cleaning every day.
In freshwater, microscopic particles of algae will collect dirt and debris. These adhere to the surface of a floating line, adding weight which eventually overcomes the line's natural buoyancy. This microscopic dirt will also help grind ridges into line guides and destroy line coatings.
In saltwater fly fishing, salt will dry on the line.
When you notice your line not shooting as well, or the tip of a floating line bginning to sink, it is overdue for a good cleaning.
Warm water, a few drops of a mild soap without detergent or even a small bar of soap and a rag is sufficient for cleaning a fly line.
If this procedure does not result in a clean line, one can use a good brand of micro abrasive fly line cleaning pad to remove stubborn dirt.
Once it is cleaned, apply a super thin coating of RIO PooGoo or another brand of 100% pure silicone on a cloth and pull the line through it. This coating needs to be extremely thin or it can pick up dirt. The silicone will also help the line to float better.
Do not use a line dressing that contains a wax since it can destroy the self lubricating properties of the line, and many have solvents in them.
The perfect answer is RIO's AgentX line dressing.
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Q.   I have a  9' 6 wt. I'll be fishing from a drift boat as well as from the bank. I'll be casting everything from small dries to streamers. What line do you suggest?

A.  Our short headed RIO Grand fly line is excellent for fixed repeated length casts that are common when drift boat and wade fishing. The line's compound taper gives it the ability to carry everything from small dries to big streamers.
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A.  An easy analogy is to take a pound of cork and a pound of lead. Both weigh 1 pound, but the lead will sink and the cork will float. It is not the weight that makes them sink or float. It is the density.
We can manufacture the tips to a specific density, and as a consequence, a specific sink rate.
It is important that the tips weigh the same. This keeps the weight of the whole head at the optimum level for the line size, thus properly loading the rod.
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Q.  I'm the proud owner of a 6 wt Rio Grand. I like the loop. However, I have been unable to tie a surgeons loop small enough to make a proper connection. If I cut off the loop, will this affect the line? Can you put a butt section on the line?

A.   First off, you will have no problem, and will not compromise the fly lines taper if you cut off the welded loop. In fact many traditionalists do that. Next snipping off the loop and tying on a butt section is also perfectly fine.
A smaller knot that Rio prefers is the perfection loop, the finished knot is half the size of a surgeons loop.
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Q.  What are the Big Boy shooting heads, and how do I use them?

A.  These bad boys are 24' density compensated heads that come in 150gr, 200gr, 300gr, 400gr, 500gr, and 600gr.
They are looped on the end for a quick loop to loop connection to your running line. These also work with the VersiTip fly line or Spey tip system fly lines when you take off the floating tips.
For the Spey lines, you should take off both floating tips.
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Q.  What are the sink rates for the three types of sink tips?

A.   All type 8 sink tips sink at a rate of 8" to 9" per second, all type 6 sink tips at 6'' to 7'' per second, the type 3 sinks at around 3" per second, and the intermediate sink at about 1.5" per second. The type 8 & 6 are recommended for very warm or very cold water where fish are deep and currents are strong. Type 3 are recommended for medium current and in still water where fish are 3' to 4' deep. Intermediate sink tips and shooting heads seem to be the best all around fish catching line. RIO recommends the intermediates for standard wet fly fishing, and in normal temperature waters (45F-60F). _________________________________

Q.  If I want to use an interchangeable sink tip, how and where do I put it?

A.  You have to take out the floating tip off the fly line and replace it with the sinking tip using the loop to loop connection.
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Q.   If I want to try shooting heads, do I match the shooting head weight with my fly rod?

A.  In most situations, it is customary to overline the weight of the shooting head by one to two sizes from the rod size. However RIO address this situation by overling the RIOMax heads by two automatically. When you buy a RIOMax ST7, it is actually a #9 head, though perfect for a #7 rod.
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Q.  What is SlickShooter and how do I attach it to my line?

A.  SlickShooter is an oval shaped, nylon monofilament shooting line. The hard slick finish and oval shape make this a very fast shooting line. It has very little memory so that you can stretch it once and it will not coil. Attach this line to your backing with a double uniknot or by making a loop connection. Lefty Kreh's no-slip loop seems to be the strongest. Attach the line to your fly line again with a loop conection or with a nail knot.
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Q.  Why is SlickShooter better than other shooting lines?

A.  SlickShooter is much slicker and the profile provides less contact on the guides. It is the favored shooting line of the Scandinavians because it not only shoots out of the guides, but it is thick enough to handle the pressure of stiking and fighting fish.
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Q.  I fish the John Day river in Oregon. I fish an 8 wt rod. My question is, What is the best sink tip, and the best floating line to use?

A.  The best Steelhead floating line is either our Steelhead taper or the Accelerator. If you are spey casting and roll casting with the single handed rod, the Steelhead taper is the best choice of line. If you are only overhead casting, then I would recommend the Accelerator as the better line. With regard to sink tips, this depends on how deep you want to fish. As we have 4 different types to consider. We have a short 7' sink tip line, a 15' sink tip line, and a 24' sink tip line. As well as interchangeable tip systems to choose from. The 15' sink tips are probably the standard flyfishers choice, and have a range of sink rates from 3 to 6 inches per second. The 7' sink tips are not for getting real deep, more for just getting under the surface and stopping the fly from skating in fast current. These sink tips are available in type 3 and type 6 as well.
The VersiTip is probably our most popular sink tip type line. It comes with five tips. A floating tip, an intermediate sink tip, and the type 3, 6 & 8 tips as well. All four tips are 15' long.
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Q.  Why should I buy a RIO fly line?

A.   RIO manufactures its own fly lines. We have new technology where tolerances can be controlled better, where there is more control over centering the core, better adhesion and lubricity. The low humidity, high desert air and continuous durability testing help ensure the overall quality.The RIO staff is dedicated and commited to producing world class fly lines, leaders, and tippet materials.
This is accomplished through intensive, constant R&D and thorough field testing by RIO's staff as well as input from guides, dealers, and fly fishers everywhere.
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Q.  I received a package of RIO braided loops. When attempting to work the flyline down the braid toward the loop the braid is completely unraveling. What an I doing wrong? How should I be doing this procedure? 

A.   Braided loops are easy to fray and it is just a case of getting the knack of sliding it on without the fray. Though easy, it is very hard to describe in words.
Start by cutting off all the fray before you attempt to put the line in. Make sure the sleeve is on the braided loop, as well. Slip a medium large needle into the end of the braid and gently heat the needle and rotate the needle at the same time. Be careful not to let the flame touch the braid otherwise it will burn a hole in it!
Heat the needle for about 5 seconds, then pull it out and you should be left with a large opening in the end of the braid. Cut off the burnt ends and carefully slide the fly line into the wide mouth.
The heat serves two purposes, it opens up a larger hole and it sets the braid making it harder to fray. You can still fray it by rushing the line up the braid, but this is the best way of going about it.
Finally, pull the tubing down over the connection, being sure to cover the end of the braid. If you do not want to use the tubing, apply a little 'crazy glue' to keep the braid tight and eliminate fraying.
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Q.  Why do I get coils and/or memory in my fly line?

A.  First of all, all fly lines are coiled at final manufacture to fit onto the packaging spool. This process does not add twist to the fly line, however, the line should be removed from the spool in the reverse direction. If the spool is taken apart, and the line is removed a coil at a time, this will add twist. An attempt to take out this twist by stretching the line, will result in only a temporarily straightened line. The 'energy' is still there, and is stored in the line. It will 'remember' this, and eventually try to coil back up. A salt water fly line with a braided monofilament core and harder plastisol will compound this more than a softer fresh water fly line with a nylon multifilament core.
    There are several other things that will add to twist and coiling. First and foremost is fighting fish. Fish do somersaults underwater while trying to get away. Of course large saltwater species will put more twist into a fly line than a trout. Recently, we had a customer, who complained about a Deep Seas line. When he first got the line, it performed perfectly, but after several dozen big mean saltwater fish, the line acted like a slinky. Our customer could not understand what was happening. We asked for the fly line back and upon examination on the factory floor, the line had about a thousand and one twists and coils. We gently moved the coils out to the tip and walla! the line lay straight. This angler had never taken the coils out of the fly line.
    Even when I put on a new fly line on to a reel, the first thing I do is unroll, (Never pull the line off coil by coil!) and stretch the line out the full length on some grass. With the thumb and forefinger starting at the end of the running line or backing, I'll move all the winds to the tip or leader end and out forever. For best results, I might do this two or three times. Leave the tip end of the line free when winding it onto the reel, or connect the tip to a swivel, and have someone keep very slight tension on it while I reel it up. I will repeat this process a couple of times during the season if I have been casting the line a lot.
    Then, there is the act of casting from a boat. If the fly fisher strips off a lot of line to lie on the boat deck and then on the presentation cast does not shoot all the line, he will add twist the next time he strips back into the boat. If you experience a lot of twist while on a boat, ask your captain to troll at low speed. Cut your fly off the leader, or take off the leader. Run all the fly line out to the water behind the boat for a few minutes then as you wind in on the reel, have your captain hold the fly line between his thumb and forefinger. This will help take out any twist or coils in the fly line.
For more information on this, watch the short film listed  under the section "videos". _________________________________