RIO is proud to be sponsoring this tour and is excited to help raise awareness in order to protect this special place. So, if you feel strongly about protecting Salmon and Trout habitat, check out the facts at http://americansalmonforest.org/and enter a short essay on why you think protecting this area is important. If we like what you have to say you just might find yourself fishing and blogging in the Tongass this summer!

For all of the details including how to enter, check in with the Outdoor Blogger Network. Time is running out!

The post Last Chance to enter the TU Blogger Tour appeared first on RIO.

The science behind the use of strike indicators is based on lake morphometry (structure of lakes) and biology. The majority of trout feeding occurs on the shoal or within the shallow water zone of the lake. This typically means at depths of less than 25 feet. The shoal is the grocery store in the lake where photosynthesis reaches the bottom and stimulates the growth of green plants. The benthic substrate and lush growth of such plants as pondweed, coontail, lily pads, bulrush and cattails provides superb habitat for scuds, chironomids, mayflies, damselflies, caddis flies, dragonflies, leeches and forage fish.  Trout and char in such environments do much of their feeding close to the bottom and within the cover of the heavy plant growth. These foraging tactics are what make the use of indicators so effective. Indicators allow the angler to suspend, wind drift or slowly retrieve flies through preferred, precise feeding depths.

Getting Geared UP

My preferred setup for indicator fishing is a 9.5 to 10 ft long fairly fast action rod in 5 or 6 wt matched to a RIO Indicator line. These lines have been designed to cast the hard foam or plastic indicators that are commonly used when fishing lakes. I then attach a 10 ft long RIO Indicator Leader to the welded loop of the fly line. If I am fishing water that holds really large trout then I’ll use a 3X indicator leader otherwise it is usually the 4X leader to the end of the fly line. I then add Fluoroflex Plus tippet material via a triple surgeons knot so that the leader is long enough to present my fly or flies within 12 inches of the lake bottom. The next step is important to understand. Make sure your total leader length is long enough so that your flies will suspend within 12 inches of the bottom while the indicator is pegged or set on the level section of the indicator leader. In other words, try not to set your indicator on the tapered butt section of the indicator leader. The 3 ft tapered butt section of the RIO Indicator leader is designed to assist in the turnover of the indicator and the fly or flies.  When fishing waters restricted to the use of one fly I will tie in a barrel swivel approx. 18 to 24 in. above the fly. Swivels help in several ways: they help get your fly down quicker, the added weight helps to reduce the bounce of your fly when there is a heavier chop on the water, and when fishing chironomid pupa emergences the fish will sometimes bite the swivel which tells your current pupal pattern is not close enough to the ones being eaten. I use black, grey, silver and gold swivels in sizes 12 to 16 with the larger number corresponding to smaller sizes.

Regardless of fly pattern or how many I have on, they are all attached with non-slip loop knots. This knot allows the fly to swing and undulate as it hangs under the indicator. Wind drifting patterns under an indicator from an anchored position adds even more natural movement to the fly. I prefer to make a long cast directly upwind and allow the fly line, indicator and fly to drift back to me. All I do is keep the slack out of the line so that a straight line connection is maintained between the tip of the fly rod and the fly line. Upwind casts are done only in a gentle breeze situation. If the wind is too strong it will be very difficult to get any distance to your cast and the drift back will be too fast with an unnatural movement to the fly.

When fishing chironomid emergences it is very important to get your pupal imitation(s) down to the depth zone the fish are feeding.  In many instances trout like to feed on the pupa in a very narrow depth range. For example, if there was a good pupal emergence occurring in 16 ft of water the trout may be gorging on them at a depth between 14 and 15 ft in depth. Pupal patterns suspended at 8 or 12 ft go unnoticed. The rule of thumb is to present patterns closer to the bottom than higher in the water column. Almost all the prominent trout food sources can be very successfully fished under an indicator. However, chironomids, mayfly nymphs, leeches, damselfly nymphs, caddis fly pupa and scuds are my go to patterns for this technique.

Here are 2 of my favourite patterns to fish under indicators:

Ruby-eyed Leech

Thread – 8/0 black

Hook – 10-2X to 8-3X streamer hook

Tail – Black/Red Arizona Simi Seal dubbing

Body – Black/Red Arizona Simi Seal on copper wire dubbing brush

Bead Head – 1/8^th in copper cone head with maroon silver lined glass bead behind cone head

Black and Red Chironomid Pupa

Thread – 8/0 black

Hook – Scud hook in #18 to #6

Tag – Red Holographic Tinsel

Rib – fine red copper wire

Body – black Midge Flex

Bead – Super white metal bead

The post Under the Indicator, by Brian Chan appeared first on RIO.

Fluoroflex^® Freshwater is a medium-stiff tippet made with pure fluorocarbon; ideal for salmon, steelhead, bass, and for throwing larger flies at freshwater species. It is also extremely abrasion resistant and a great choice when a tough material is required. Being fluorocarbon, Fluoroflex Freshwater tippet material has a light refraction index very close to water, which results in an almost invisible tippet when under water. It is available from 7x-0x at a retail price of $12.95 and in 16-pound and 20-pound spools for $17.95 from any authorized RIO dealer.

The new Fluoroflex Saltwater Tippet is also 100 percent fluorocarbon, highly abrasion resistant and medium-stiff in nature. It is a fantastic choice of tippet material for casting on windy days with large saltwater fly patterns and great on clear flats when targeting spooky fish. Fluoroflex Saltwater is available in 8, 10, 12, 16, 20 and 25-pound spools for $17.95 and 30, 35, 40, 50, 60, 80 and 100-pound for $24.95.

Another new addition for anglers chasing bonefish, redfish, stripers, coastal salmon, and sea-runs is the new RIO Saltwater Tippet. The medium-stiff nylon tippet is ideal for casting typical saltwater flies in windy conditions combining high knot strength and great abrasion resistance. The Saltwater Tippet is available in 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 25, and 30-pound spools for a retail price of $4.95.

RIO’s new Steelhead/Salmon Tippet is soft enough to let a waking dry wobble and dance yet stiff enough to turn over big Intruders. The medium-stiff tippet has great knot strength and is available in 8, 10, 12, 16 and 20-pound spools and retails for $4.95.

About RIO Products:

RIO is a pioneer in developing fly lines, leaders and tippet material to enhance fly fishing experiences across the globe. Offering premium fly lines for both freshwater and saltwater fishing applications, RIO consistently utilizes field experience and scientific testing to create the best products on the market for anglers. Founded 20 years ago in the mountains of Idaho, RIO continues to develop innovative products, design revolutionary tapers and refine performance-driven fly line technologies. For more information about RIO Products, please visit http://www.rioproducts.com. Connect with us through Facebook, Twitter, Google+ and Vimeo.

The post RIO Products Expands Tippet Collection appeared first on RIO.

To provide a quieter approach and eliminate the noise that comes from water slapping against the hull, most flats-skiff manufacturers have eliminated hard chine edges in favor of softer ones. The results have been fantastic and it is now possible to more closely approach fish in a skiff than ever before. But despite all the technical advances in no-slap hulls, stealthy wading remains the quietest way to stalk fish in skinny water.

Understanding the relationship between underwater “sounds” and a fish’s hearing system is a prerequisite to silent wading technique on the flats. Fish have an acute hearing system that allows them to detect a wide range of sounds, including vibrations and water movement/displacement/pressure, at a much lower decibel level than humans. Nerves along the lateral line pick up these various sounds and transfer them to the inner ear. The fact that water is around 800 times denser than air and amplifies underwater sound provides further reason for a quiet approach.

Not all circumstances are conducive to wading. Some situations require fishing from a boat so prior to stepping onto any saltwater flat, make sure that the bottom is suitable for wading by testing it with a stick or by entering the water very slowly. Hard sand is easy to walk across, but some mud bottoms are so soft that you can sink to your waist, or deeper in a matter of seconds. I’ve heard of many situations where flyfishers have gotten temporarily stuck because they didn’t first check for relatively firm footing. That doesn’t mean you should avoid all soft bottoms – just the ones that are almost impossible to walk across. For safer wading on soft mud, move slowly and test the bottom with each step, but “when in doubt – stay out.”

Walk at a leisurely rate so that you make no surface noise and push as little water as possible. Keep in mind that fish are not only able to detect any splashy wading activity, but they can pick up the “sound” of water being displaced or pushed as well. As much as possible, avoid frightening any fish as even scurrying bait can alert a gamefish to your presence. A deliberate pace also allows you to study the surroundings and spot more fish in the process.

The wading technique you use largely depends on water clarity, depth, and whether stingrays are prevalent. In dark water and areas in the vicinity of a large population of stingrays, slide your feet along the bottom instead of lifting them as you walk. This “stingray shuffle” will not only help you avoid the excruciatingly painful penetration of a ray’s barb, but it will also prevent you from stepping on some other unseen sharp object.  When stalking fish in water where the bottom is clearly visible and stingrays are not a problem, you have the option of lifting a foot out of the water each time you take a step and then silently placing it back down toes first – similar to the way a long-legged shorebird would walk. When utilizing the “shorebird walk,” occasionally check the bottom to avoid contact with sea urchins, sharp corals, and other items that might scrape or otherwise penetrate the skin. In deeper crystalline waters with clean sand bottoms that are void of stingrays, you have the option of moving your feet normally along the bottom. Regardless of which wading procedure you employ, movement should be slow and quiet.

Choose the right wading gear for the situation. In cool water, full chest-high waders are a good choice and they also provide excellent foot protection. On the other hand, nylon pants or shorts worn with a pair of specialty flats wading boots are far more comfortable in warm water.  Lightweight and flexible neoprene wading boots are perfect on level bottoms; whereas, heavy-duty flats boots increase support on uneven bottoms and offer the best protection around oyster bars, coral, and other submerged things. Some wading flyfishers also opt to wear specialized armored shin protectors in areas where stingrays are prominent – especially in dark water where the rays aren’t visible.

In addition to stingrays, there are a variety of sea critters to keep an eye out for including sea lice, alligators, crocodiles, and sharks. Sea lice are not actually “lice,” but small crustaceans that have a bite that is more uncomfortable than painful. If they happen to be in the area you’re wading, simply wear a pair of nylon pants to avoid any contact.

Encounters with alligators in saltwater shallows are rather common in some regions, but, from my experience, the dangers of wading an area inhabited by them are blown all out of proportion. They are normally rather shy creatures that keep to themselves; however, on rare occasions during the spring mating season they can get a little aggressive and may even slowly work their way toward you – more out of curiosity than anything else. If you want to be on the safe side, simply yield the water to any that are moving in your general direction. However, in regard to crocodiles you should immediately get the hell out of the water if you were ever stupid enough to enter it in the first place!

“The man in the gray suit” is a frequent visitor on most saltwater flats. Relatively small sharks often prowl around an area where several fish have been caught in hopes of picking-off one that has been released in a weakened condition. In addition, a small shark may follow in the trail of any cloudy silt you might stir up while wading. Rarely do these small fish present a problem; but, in the event that one becomes a little aggressive or gets too close, a sharp jab on the nose with the butt of a rod or kicking water at the shark will usually scare it away. Keep in mind that the deeper you wade, the greater the chances of an encounter with a jaws-like specimen that might not be so easily frightened; and believe me, it is a stimulating event to say the least. The chances of an encounter with large sharks can be greatly reduced if you stay away from the deep flats immediately adjacent to channels and drop-offs; but sometimes those areas are unavoidable if that’s where the fish and you want to have a shot at them.

Another important detail to consider when wading is the fly line. The prerequisite for any fly line used for wading on saltwater flats is to make sure that it floats. From my experience, RIO’s floating saltwater lines sit higher on the surface than others I’ve used and, therefore, aren’t as likely to sink and get tangled in submerged vegetation or around the feet. Because the line of sight is much shorter when wading than it is from an elevated position in a boat, casts are normally shorter as well. As a result, floating lines with short heads that load a rod quickly offer a distinct advantage in making a speedy presentation. To meet the demands of wade-fishing on extremely shallow flats, I am especially fond of using RIO’s Redfish Taper and the new Bonefish Quick-Shooter lines, not only for casting to their namesake species, but also for a variety of other saltwater gamefish.

Jon B. Cave

E-mail: jbcflyfish@att.net

Web site: www.jonbcaveflyfishing.com

The post Tips for Wading the Flats, By Jon B. Cave appeared first on RIO.

Sinking lines sink at varied rates measured in inches per second. Choosing the correct sink rate line is based upon a number of factors. Water depth is obvious. When prospecting deep water using faster sink rate lines makes sense. But this isn’t always the case. Selecting the correct line is not a race to the bottom but a blend of targeting the right depth in conjunction with a retrieve pace that keeps the fly there for as long as possible.

The pace and manner in which Stillwater food sources move is a prime consideration.  Stillwater food sources are not Olympic athletes capable of great speeds. For the most part they crawl, wiggle, or swim in a slow random fashion. Your sinking fly line must allow you to retrieve your pattern in a realistic manner without dragging it into the weeds and bottom debris. Water temperature also plays a role. Cooler water reduces a trout’s metabolism thereby reducing their activity. Retrieves must be slow to be successful. Unsettled weather also reduces trout activity dictating pedestrian retrieves coupled with slow sinking lines. RIO AquaLux Clear Intermediate or Hover lines are my preferred choices in these conditions. Active trout and attractor flies allow for brisk retrieves and faster sink rate lines.

Once you have figured what sinking line best fits the conditions you now have to use a method to systematically cover water. So once you locate trout you can repeat the process to continue catching fish. Enter the countdown method.

Knowing the sink rate of a line allows you to consistently count your line down to a specific depth. With a little math it is easy to place your fly at the same level on successive presentations. The rule of 12 is your key to this puzzle. Dividing the sink rate of your line into 12 determines how long it takes your fly line to sink one foot. Once you know how long it takes to sink a foot all you have to do is multiply this number by your target depth to know how long to let your line sink. For example, if you are anchored in 12 feet of water and there is roughly 1-2 feet of weeds growing along the bottom presenting your fly at 10 feet would be a good starting point. Trout tend to cruise near the bottom in and around the weed tops.  A type III sinking line sinks at three inches per second.  Using the rule of 12, three divided into 12 reveals that it will take your line four seconds to sink one foot.  To reach 10 feet a type III line would need to sink 40 seconds (4 x 10=40). If you choose a type III sinking line you can begin exploring the water using a 40 second countdown. If you hang up you might have to reduce the sink time or increase your retrieve speed to avoid the weed tops. Adjusting your sink time in five second increments is a good starting point. If you are still hanging up more than you would like switching to a slower sink rate line would be the next option.

Pattern weight and leader length also plays a role. Weighted patterns accelerate a line’s sink rate. I favor un-weighted patterns. The only time I weight flies is when it aids the action of the fly. Weighting the front portion of the hook on a leech pattern to provide a seductive jigging action is a good example.

Using the correct leader length ensures your line and fly are working at the same depth.  Too long a leader results in your line working at the timed depth while your fly tracks somewhere above.  As a rule, the faster the sink rate the shorter the leader. I use leaders between 9 and 12 feet on my slow sinking lines. For faster sink rate lines, type III or greater, my leaders range between 7.5 feet and four feet. Clear water and multiple flies dictate longer leaders. When using more than one fly I like to keep them 3-5 feet apart so they work independently. I prefer to keep my line and flies further apart when I am fishing clear water lakes.

Understanding the sink rate of your line and using it to your advantage through the countdown method allows you place your fly in productive water on a consistent basis, a habit that should increase your catch rate.

The post The Countdown Method, by Phil Rowley appeared first on RIO.

We are in New Zealand as I write this with a group of fishermen on the South Island at Owen River Lodge. This is always a great trip and one of our favorite destinations. I know, without a doubt, that if we did not have family back home, Barry would live here. I don’t know if it is the amount of water, the people, the land or the fish – probably a combination of all that keeps us coming back every year.

But there are extremes in weather. In the winter months, long before we get here, floods can rage out of control and be so intense that entire riverbeds, miles wide, get rearranged. It’s incredible to stand in the water at this time of year and look up into the trees where the water lines have left debris and try to imagine the unstoppable raging force of water that was here just a few months before.

Here we are fishing for trophy size brown trout. The truly record breakers are hard to find. We might walk 4-6 miles a day and some days we’ll cast to a half dozen fish, other days maybe a dozen, and they will all be beautiful, well built, and strong.

There is also wind, lots of wind at times. And can it ever rip through the valleys. Now add a 15-20 foot leader to the picture and you can see what the problem is. Trying to turn over these very long leaders and a size 8 cicada or a size 10 super beetle becomes a chore. All these years I’ve struggled with this, thinking that I had to haul harder, keep a lower rod profile, try a higher back cast, wait for a break in the gust – well, each trick would work now and then, but nothing completely solved the problem and made it go away.

Nothing will. I’ve accepted that, but we have found something that really makes a difference. We were at the Somerset, NJ, show a week before coming to New Zealand and we were talking to Simon Gawesworth about this problem and he suggested trying RIO Steelhead/Atlantic Salmon Leaders instead of trout leaders. It was like a light bulb went off for us. We knew as soon as we heard it that it would help. The butt is heavier, it’s medium stiff material with a long butt section and taper for great turnover, and the copolymer material is incredibly tough and highly abrasion resistant. It sounded perfect!

And it is; we brought some of the leaders with us and now everyone in our group is using them and loving how they perform. New Zealand guides are notorious for long leaders. They keep the fly line further away from the fish and give a nicer drift to the fly. Yesterday our guide, Greg Gardner, looked at the fast rushing pocket water on the river we were about to fish and said, “Reckon a 20′ leader will be about right.” I looked at him like he must be joking, but as I watched him extend my leader by at least another 8 feet, I realized he was dead serious. And to that he tied a size 8 deer hair cicada.

True, it helps to open the loop when you’re casting and to let the cast completely extend in the back because you’re casting mostly leader in many instances, and I’m still hauling and hoping for a break in the wind, but the RIO Steelhead/Atlantic Salmon Leader has made an incredible difference. We will now have them in our gear bag for whenever the wind is getting the best of us. Next month is Patagonia, Argentina and then early trout season at home. Give it a try, you might be surprised too. Thanks Simon!

The post Steelhead/Salmon Leaders for Trout? by Cathy Beck appeared first on RIO.

The bonefishing was done mostly wading the flats and casting to tails. Permit fishing was mostly from the boat over 3-4 feet of water on the flats. The Tarpon available were in Creek mouths and small mangrove Lagoons. We did find Snook available in one particular creek mouth. The guides were great and all spoke English well. On a few days rather than a shore lunch we visited local establishments. Over all the Lodge food was excellent, mostly local flavor with plenty of Seafood. The lodge has wadable flats all around it, in fact 2 of the permit were caught before breakfast!

The post RIO line testing in Guanaja Honduras appeared first on RIO.

After a lifetime spent on the North Carolina Coast, I have saltwater running though my veins, so a fresh water adventure was very different from my day to day fishing. Needless to say, this guide needed a little help planning for the week. Any fishing adventure will benefit from some planning and research, especially one with more “extreme” conditions. My fishing friend Andy was a pike vet and had plenty of advice. Like most good lodges, Scott Lake Lodge had a great check list of information. Besides a tackle list, they had recommendations for clothing and other essentials.

Pike fishing involves throwing big, ugly flies. This is right in my saltwater comfort zone. I planned on taking a Sage TCX 7 weight, 2-8 weights; a Sage Xi3 and Redington 8’3” Predator. and a 9 wt Sage Xi3. One of my favorite lines to deliver chicken sized flies is the RIO OutBound Short. These lines let anglers make quick casts with minimal false casts. They are a favorite for our summer and fall saltwater species. However, the water I normally fish is warm, almost hot, so we use the tropical version. Scott Lake and the surrounding Canadian lakes are cold. RIO makes the OutBound in Tropical and Cold water versions and the cold water version is what this trip needed. I decided to take both floaters and intermediates. RIO also makes a Pike/Musky line as well that many anglers prefer. Do not leave for an adventure and try and make do with any fly line. The wrong line will ruin a trip, so do the research, spend the money and maximize the experience.

Pike have lots of gnarly teeth, so a wire shock is essential. RIO’s Powerflex Wire is perfect for dealing with teeth. It is easy to tie and does not kink like single strand wire.

The standard pike flies like Bunny Leeches work very well, but other flies can also be very effective. Bobby Popovic’s Hollow Deceiver and Hollow Fly are two saltwater flies that make excellent pike flies. The nice thing about these flies is the way they are tied give them big bulk and profile with out adding weight and they shed water. It also makes them easier to throw. The tying method lets the long buck-tail and hackle pulse in the water. Action like this can get commitment out of a pike with commitment issues.

When you find pike jacked-up and aggressive, try big surface flies. The strikes will make you weak in the knees. Our favorite fly was a big gurgler.

After a very long day of four airplane flights I finally arrived at Scott Lake via a de Havilland Otter. I had forgotten how much fun it was to fly in legendary Otters or Beavers.  I met Andy and stowed my gear, then it was time for a big dinner. After an amazing meal, it was time for bed, but the sun was still high in the sky—what’s up with that?? A lodge staffer clued me into the 3:30 am sunset, immediately followed by sunrise – good thing I was beat.

The sun was high by the time we got up at 5:30 am. The plan was for Andy and I to spend our first day on enormous Scott Lake. After a 50-minute skiff ride over the lake, we arrived at a remote section. I felt totally lost after the extended weaving ride along rocky shores, low trees and endless horizon. Our veteran guide, Kurt, was in his element and had a super day planned for us.

We started fishing in a shallow lagoon for pike. Andy’s eyes were tuned to spotting these long fish holding in the shallow stained water. After missing several fish, my eyes and arms settled into the game. Pike have a seriously bad attitude and their strikes are vicious. In this lagoon the pike were on fire, so Andy announced that it was “popper time” and out came the gurglers. We were NOT disappointed by the vicious surface strikes.

Next, we moved on to a waterfall with a deep pool, a completely different habitat and home to lake trout. Kurt told me that lakers like the fly moving fast, so I tried a saltwater style two-handed strip, He was right! Several husky, 24-inch lakers fell to this strip. While Andy was fighting a laker, a monster pike decided to stalk and eat Andy’s struggling laker. It took some teamwork, but we coaxed him to eat my leech instead!

That week we experienced rain, wind, thunder, lighting, and maybe even a touch of sleet, but the fishing was fabulous!

The post Float Planes and Big Teeth, by Brian Horsley appeared first on RIO.

April 1, 2013 (Idaho Falls, Idaho) – RIO Products, manufacturer of fly lines, leaders and tippet material, announces the release of their new range of Pike/Musky lines and leaders.

The new Pike/Musky series incorporates two different line density options; a full floating line, and a line with floating running line and a 28-foot stealthy, clear-camo intermediate head (with a sink rate of 1.5-2 inches per second). The short, ultra-powerful head easily turns over the typical large flies and streamers used to target these fish, while the braided core ensures memory-free performance in cold-water conditions. The new lines are available in WF8 to WF11 sizes, and with a MSRP of $74.95.

To complement the new lines, RIO is also introducing a selection of Pike/Musky leaders with two different wire options. The leader features a 6.5-foot tapered, nylon leader that tapers down to 16 pounds, attached to a 1-foot section of wire, for a total of 7.5 feet. The wire options (from 15lbs to 45lbs) are either a tough, silver wire with a quick-change snap link or a flexible, easy-to-knot braided bronze wire. The Pike/Musky leaders retail for $7.95 each.

About RIO Products:

RIO is a pioneer in developing fly lines, leaders and tippet material to enhance fly fishing experiences across the globe. Offering premium fly lines for both freshwater and saltwater fishing applications, RIO consistently utilizes field experience and scientific testing to create the best products on the market for anglers. Founded 20 years ago in the mountains of Idaho, RIO continues to develop innovative products, design revolutionary tapers and refine performance-driven fly line technologies. For more information about RIO Products, please visit http://www.rioproducts.com. Connect with us through Facebook, Twitter, Google+ and Vimeo.

The post RIO Releases Pike/Musky Fly Lines and Leaders appeared first on RIO.

Indicator Technique

Fishing nymphs under an indicator is a deadly technique in flowing or still waters, and may produce more trout than all the other disciplines combined. Because it so effective some anglers never tie on a dry fly or a streamer and might be missing out on some fun. I enjoy indicator fishing but if there are rising trout I fish dry flies, or if there are no surface feeders and I am in the mood, I will launch a streamer. 

1. All indicators work well no matter the design or composition. They can be yarn, foam or any material that floats. There are just a few requirements. An indicator must be buoyant enough to float whatever you hang under it and you must be able to see it. I like an indicator that is easy to slide up and down the leader to allow adjustment to different water depths.

2. I use a 9 foot 4 or 5 wt rod for indicator fishing which is set up with a floating line and a 7½  foot, 2x, RIO Powerflex Trout Leader. I add a 2 foot length of 3x Fluoroflex Plus Tippet to the end of the leader. I usually fish two or three nymphs and if the first nymph is large I will tie it to the 3x. With medium size patterns I will add 4x and tie on my first nymph. The second nymph is tied to 4 or 5x and my third nymph which is often small is usually on 5x. The size of the tippet depends on the size of the nymphs, water conditions and how pressured the fish are. Use split shot to sink the flies and attach the weight above the knot right by the first nymph. I tie tippet off of the hook bend. To avoid giant clusters when casting throw a fairly open loop with a slow but accelerating forward stroke.  A shorter leader and stepping the leader down to the last nymph also help decrease tangles.

3. I like to set my indicator 1-1 1/2 times the water depth but there are many variables such as weight of the split shot and nymphs, variable water depth and speed, length of drift etc. so where you set your indicator is not an exact science.

4. The basic technique is to fish the indicator and nymphs with a dead drift, but it can be very effect to mix in some twitches during the drift. Another good way to induce a reluctant fish to take the fly is to let the nymphs rise up in the water column at the end of the drift by holding the line tight – especially if the last fly is an emerger or pupa.

5. If there is a twitch or any different look to the indicator when it is drifting, set the hook!

Hopper-Copper-Dropper

This is basically a dry-dropper technique with a little embellishment. I use a BC Hopper which is very buoyant and visible for the dry, and drop a Copper John off the bend of the hopper and a third fly, usually a pupa or emerger off the bend of the copper. This technique isn’t geared towards fishing the nymphs near the bottom but rather towards getting the fish to look up at the hopper and giving them a choice of the hopper, the copper or the dropper. The copper sinks rapidly, attracts and gets takes but it can also bait and switch trout to an emerger or pupa representing an insect that has been hatching.

I use a 9 foot 4 or 5 wt. rod, floating line and 7 1/2 foot 2x leader. I tie the hopper to the 2x and use Fluoroflex Plus to the copper and dropper. My standard set up is 2-3 feet of 4x or 5x to the copper and 1 foot of 5x to the dropper. This can vary but that is a good baseline.

1. It is a great technique to use during the summer and fall when trout may be keeping an eye on the surface for hoppers or other large floating insects. The hopper serves as an indicator if a trout takes one of the nymphs, and you can also hook trout on the hopper.

2. I find that my focus is better when watching the hopper for a possible take than when staring at an indicator.

3. There are several advantages to the HCD technique over the indicator besides improved focus and hooking trout that are watching the surface for food. It is much more pleasant to cast than an indicator rig. It can almost be cast like a single dry fly, with a little wider loop and the same smooth acceleration on the back and fore stroke as a dry fly. It can be fished in shallow riffles, along banks and in smaller pockets where indicator fishing is impractical.

The post Nymph Fishing, By John S. Barr appeared first on RIO.